The only point I deviated was to first flash the microcontroller with QMK before I got started with the build as it's a good idea to make sure the ones that get shipped boot up and connect! Lily58 KB Build Guide. Pcbs and cases are sold in . Insert into holes. I would say start with the ZMK documentation . Collin's Lab: Soldering by Adafruit Industries. Attach the top plate spacers for alignment. Lily58 Pro is a 58 key split keyboard with OLEDs and supports an LED strip. DO NOT FORGET THESE; they will be very difficult to access after the pro micro is soldered into place. However, because it shares the exact same process as the Kyria, you can follow the build steps of the Kyria Build Guide. Keep in mind height of your Pro Micro which may be different based on if/which sockets you have used for Pro Micro. For these it is definitely best to do them in order, and test regularly. Lily58L is 64+4keys column-staggered split keyboard. This behavior can be switched programmatically without any problem. Insert into holes. Sockets for switches belong again on the back side, the same side as diodes. They belong to the backside of the PCB. Bridge 4 jumper pads on the top side. There are several ways how to mount Pro Micros to the board. Use as low a temperature as you can manage, place the board flat on a table, and drop an led in. When attaching with a spring pin header (con-through), solder it according to the method described in the Helix build guide and then attach it to the Lily 58 PCB. Attach four 10mm round spacers to the holes near ProMicro. On this guide i started with the left half. Use a piece of tape to fix them and apply solder from the bottom side. I was not able to get 7mm, but 6mm worked well for me with MX switches. Solder in place on the bottom side of the pcb. In 2 sets come 24 + 24 Pins enough for 2 controllers, Optional, but its always fun to put a bongo cat for example later on the screen, to check the wpm or show current layer etc, if the controller will be hotswap, this makes total sense to have, or Micro USB cable (depending on the chosen controller). Load the downloaded JSON file into the QMK Toolbox and write it to the boards. Customize my keymap, lily58 pro supports 4 different keymaps reachable through the LOWER and RAISE physical buttons. While this is not a Lily58 build video, the steps are more or less the same and a great short video to get a grasp of the overall build procedure. Make sure they are flush with PCB. I've estimated it's battery life somewhere between 1-2 months. Its not a polished product. It is a modified version of the Lily58 Pro pcb from kata0510 and has the the following additional features. Re-solder the problem socket, or reflow and add solder if the joint is weak. If you are building a Lily58 rev1.0 with per-key RGB but without underglow, you need to solder the jumper marked JP1 instead of the JP2 indicated in the build guide. You signed in with another tab or window. The above picture is from the crkbd guide shows pin 4 on the table (the table is viewed from the top of the LED). On the front side of the board, apply enough solder to bridge the four jumper terminals in the ProMicro section. After mounting the plate, push the switches again to make sure that installation is complete. Solder in place on the bottom side of the pcb. Fully Wireless Lily58 Pro. Lily58 Pro Build Guide by Keyhive. Lily58 Pro Build Guide [WIP] Required parts Introduction The Pro version has color variations, and the photos in this build guide are are of the black version, but the white verison is functionally identical. SofleRGB uses QMK firmware, it can use any Sofle keymap. This version rolls back the original pro-micro pinout (to the state it was for V1) and improves routing. LEAD TIME in FAQ Tab. Watch the markings on the silkscreen which show the correct orientation. Sofle keyboard uses QMK Firmware and support for the board is part of the main QMK repository. Be careful so you dont bend their contacts. And if you find any problem there are incredible communities to look for information like Reddit (r/MechanicalKeyboards, r/ErgoMechKeyboards) and geekhack.org forums. Below you can find some photos taken during the process of bui lding it and the final product. Screw in the standoffs on the top side of the PCB for the OLED Cover first. Use a piece of tape to fix them and apply solder from the bottom side. The command might look something like this: Connect the second half and flash it in the same way as the previous one. Download and run a small shell script that will automate most of the setup. keyboard-only usage. Dismiss, Compile ZMK Firmware + Flash Nice!Nano Controller. The TRRS jack and the reset switch are mounted on the front side (the one with the sticker on the mark). Feel free to get creative and experiment with keymaps that match your preferences; consider changing to the JIS layout or adding a key to switch between English and Kana, for example. After being baited by several beautiful builds online, I really had no choice but to dive into the world of mechanical keyboards with zero electronics experience under my belt. Insert headers into holes. As you can see the list of components could be a little overwhelming if you are not in this world. A build guide Lily58 Pro suggests 7mm for MX. Depending on the color and release date, some parts may differ, but there is no difference in operation. The right half has the pro micro mounted up-side up so its mounted differently on each half. At this point, you must check if all key keys work properly by connecting the keyboard to the computer. After that, holding gently the socket down with the tweezers solder the corresponding side. Once both halves are flashed, you need to press the 'reset' button on both at the same time (for about a second) for the halves to "sync" (what I was told on the nice!nano discord). Double-check the bottom. There may be a problem with the key switch's insertion, socket or diode soldering. Work out what leds you wish to have, I have endeavoured to provide plenty of flexibility, and all led configurations are available using the headers available. Desoldering is frustrating and its easy to mess up things. 2, This can be changed, look for setting handednesss in QMK documentation. While this is not a Lily58 build video, the steps are more or less the same and a great short video to get a grasp of the overall build procedure. Think on them as typical Fn keys but not limited for one row of the keyboard but for every single key on it. This keyboard runs QMK and the firmware can be found here. Each half of the keyboard must be programmed separately using this approach. I used some I had in my stock so I am not going to tell you exact length. Connect one half to USB, flash the firmware (always follow the actuall instructions in the QMK documentation! In the end, you are their client. I wouldn't mind adding some LED backlighting to this The main half acts as a master that forwards events produced from its sibling to the computer. Repeat all the steps above on the another half. good, and in the community of DIY custom keyboards, you try to apply a higher It should get in smoothly with almost no resistance. Build guides for Helix, Corne and Lily58 suggest those spring pin headers which are very compact and give you non-permanent connection (you can remove or replace Pro Micros). The end with the thin line is Cathode (-) and it should go in the direction of the arrow symbol on the PCB. Begin by placing one on each of the corners of the PCB to give you some stability. Base Plate: No Plates, Black 1.5mm FR4, White 3mm Acrylic, Black Matte 3mm Acrylic, Clear 3mm Acrylic, Frosted 3mm Acrylic, Smoked 3mm Acrylic, Aluminum . Great intro into soldering in general. Click here for the Corne Cherry v2 build guide. Luckily if you are interested in a custom keyboard but youre a little afraid of doing it there is a second-hand market in Reddit that has a lot of options on fully built keebs. For kits purchased at YushaKobo, a spring pin header is included, so use that. If you wish to experiment, use 2.54mm headers and jumpers. Using the base pattern is the only consistent pattern between at least two different models with different pin 1 definitions and markings. If you use QMK Configurator, you can create an original keymap on the browser without editing the keymap.c file. Dont connect or disconnect the TRRS cable when the keyboard is powered. Latest commit f5ac034 on Aug 6, 2022 History. Turn over the board and solder the pins, making sure that the TRRS jack and reset switch are in firm contact with the board. With the QMK Toolbox route, the setup was as simple as: The microcontrollers should both be good to go! This is easier before the pro micro headers are soldered. Nate the Maker. By default your left half is the master and the right is the slave, but you can change that in QMK later if you desire to have the USB cable connected to the right half. Add more. One rotary encoder support on each side (optional), Optional Pimoroni Trackball (on master side), Underglow with WS2812 (5050) RGB LED's (6 per side), Per switch RGB LED with SK6812 Mini-E led (with legs, easy to solder), Change underglow footprint to WS2812 (5050) (easier to solder), Add footprint for an optional rotary encoder. Bridge 4 jumpers on the TOP SIDE of the PCB by soldering them 2 by 2 vertically on both PCBs, if you plan to use OLED Screens. Flash the controller (pro micro, Elite C, nice!nano, etc) with the firmware. ** Indicator + drop lighting + per key lighting **. Given the context Ive presented in the previous section, I chose some parts that fit the most We will mount parts on each side. That brings the total cost to ~$252 USD! You signed in with another tab or window. move to ortholinear split keyboard layout; size around 60% and use MX-like tactile switches. Designed by kata0510, the Lily58 and Lily58 Pro is a split design with a 64 column staggered grid with a 4 key thumb cluster. A tag already exists with the provided branch name. Oh, and my build doesn't have any OLED screens to install so I skipped that bit. Hello and welcome to the temporary Lily58 KB Build Guide. 20 are going to hold the boards together (via spacers). Shay Kalyan, The Worst Hobby on the Internet - Mechanical Keyboards (Beginners Guide). It may short out. A much better deal than buying pre-made, plus I now have equipment to experiment with and take on other projects. Are you sure you want to create this branch? 10 (+4) M2 spacers. Their height depends on which switches you use. Out of the box, the controllers were already in DFU (Device Firmware Upgrade) mode for me. and here is the final product . I've designed a wireless pro micro replacement to be able to make this fully wireless Lily58 Pro possible. The diodes are mounted on the back side of the board. A couple of additional callouts, though: There are several community contributed keymaps within the Lily58/keymaps folder in the QMK repo, but I found that there really isn't any one opinionated set of keymaps that folks typically stick to. Please set Lily 58 as a US keyboard in the OS keyboard settings. 1 contributor. It can be found on QMK repo. Put all keycaps on top of the keyswitches, which are the plastic covers. But if you really need underglow it is be possible to connect an RGB LED strip since there are 3 pads (VCC, GND and data) on the board. I used the original build guide for the lily58 and joined the nice nano and zmk discord which was very helpful. Kailh Box and choc switches require a bit of force for installation. Also this build guide no longer applies to their version. This unfortunately suggests soldering the micro on first, despite it making the back side harder to solder. Be gentle with micro USB ports on your microcontrollers. First of all, you need to solder SMD diodes alongside each switch socket, on my Lily58 PCB Both halves assembled, a rotary encoder can be added on both, one or none. 10 are going to hold the bottom and the top together. Keyboard Soldering and Desoldering for Beginners by Blacksimon. The microcontroller sits on the opposite side of the PCB face to the one that will have diodes and sockets soldered on, so make sure to orientate and slot the controller through the right holes on the correct side. ** Indicator + per key lighting ** Connect one half to USB, flash the firmware (always follow the actuall instructions in the QMK documentation! Always disconnect the USB cable first. Prepare the Pro Micro. If it is wrong, remove it and re-solder it. Second, I own more mechanical keyboards (keeb) than my pocket desires. Double combo . The following is needed to build the keyboard. Theres also a basic support in QMK Configurator but theres no encoder or led support. The QMK firmware is highly customizable, and you can unlock a lot functionality simply by editing the key map. It may short out. In addition, please be careful, as the case will be scratched if it hits or rubs a hard thing after assembly. Carefully snap the first switches to the sockets. The labels for JP1 and JP2 were accidentally swapped. There's a handy guide on their website to get you up and running, but as I found out after getting my WSL2 setup running with QMK installed, it's not actually necessary to have a Linux distro available to build your own CLI to flash the controller with. I stuck very close to the Lily58 build guide I linked above. But shows the same layout and net labels on the bottom. Start with the diodes. 10 x 7mm Brass Standoffs (MX Normal Profile) OR 5mm Brass Standoffs (Choc Low Profile), 58 x Kailh Hotswap Sockets (MX Normal Profile) OR Choc Low Profile Sockets (Choc Low Profile), 2 x Pro Micro Controllers (Comes with Headers to Direct Attach), 2 x 40 Pin Machined Breakable Female Header (Enable Controller Hot Swap). If you are interested in wireless keyboards, I'm designing more fully wireless keyboards besides just a pro micro replacement. When Detecting USB port, reset your controller now is displayed, press the reset button on the keyboard to start writing. Test the PCB by checking if it registers keypresses. Carefully snap the first switches to the sockets. A tag already exists with the provided branch name. Keyboard Soldering and Desoldering for Beginners, Lily58 Pro Custom Mechanical Keyboard with nice!nanos Build Stream, latest stable release from their GitHub page, lily58_keymap.json file that I've hosted as a Gist, Plug in one of the microcontrollers and let the tool pick it up. + per key lighting * * the micro on first, despite it making the side. + drop lighting + per key lighting * * Indicator + drop lighting + per key lighting * * +. Make this fully wireless Lily58 Pro possible oh, and drop an led in the controllers were already DFU., Lily58 Pro pcb from kata0510 and has the the following additional features per key *. 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