When you must cross a vegetated area, spread out so that all your footsteps dont crush the same plant. Also recommended for mid-summer climbs. Participants age 16 & 17: May participate in fixed-date group itineraries if accompanied by a parent or legal guardian. After breakfast, we break camp, pack our gear and retrace our steps back to the trailhead. Participants must possess excellent aerobic endurance, strong upper body climbing muscles, and basic climbing skills, including solid footwork. Hot, boiled cooking water will be provided for your meal preparation, for example for freeze-dried dinners, instant soups, instant oatmeal and hot drinks. The summit register was in terrible condition, full of scraps of loose paper, we had to just squeeze our names into a space in-between the other entries. We ate and organized our packs for summit day, finishing up around 6:30pm. Our day started out pretty early. Shuksan. Day 2 . Backcountry permits are designed to prevent over-crowding at some sites and to disperse visitors throughout the park at a rate which is less damaging to wilderness resources such as native vegetation, soils, and wildlife. According to Fred Beckey: Mt. There are also bivy sites above the chimneys, both above and below Winnie's Slide, with access to running water. Dont bury your waste in snowit melts out in a few days, looking just the same. At this meeting guides will issue Mount Shuksan: Location: USA-Washington: Elevation: 9131 ft / 2783 m: Ascent Trip Report 4 of us attempted Mount Shuksan via the Fisher Chimneys. A deposit of $500.00 is due at the time of registration to reserve a space on the course. They offer big mountain terrain in an unbelievable setting. Day 2. However, excellent weather and generous trip planning made this a very successful outing with abundant learning opportunities. Climbing boots must be full shank and crampon compatible. I found the downclimbing easy to make up the difference, however for Joe and Rob this improvisational transition and the end of each rappel added some extra time. We used both ropes in a caterpillar manner for the ridge climb. Upon receiving your registration, Northwest Alpine Guides will email you complete PreClimb information, including a gear list specific to your itinerary and other departure details. Burlington, WA 98233. Guides must be licensed by the park in order to operate legallyplease use the current list of guide services only. The HMG camera holster bag worked really well, I had it rigged up with some carabiners, a cord directly to the camera and a bag strap so there were a couple redundant points to prevent the camera from going free - which actually came into play once, saving the rig from smashing on the rocks and/or rolling off the mountain. Turn left onto F & S Grade Road, From State Highway 20 East, at the traffic circle, take the 2nd exit onto Cook Road (after the Walgreens), Follow Cook Road to Borseth Road in Sedro-Woolley, 7 min (4.3 mi) In recent years, many climbers have noticed and complained, with bitterness touched by sadness, about the myriad of fluttering flags found along many, many routes in the North Cascades. Shuksan taken from the Summit of neighborin 1. Fires Dont burn it Suggested food items: Alpine Breakfast: Instant oatmeal, Pop Tarts, dried fruit, granola bars, bagels, peanut butter, cream cheese. Shuksan is located in the North Cascades National Park at the edge of the Mount Baker Scenic Byway. 22. Give us a call to check on current availability (541)312-9242. From high camp, we ascend a snow slope and short ice pitch to the top of Winnies Slide. Forbidden is a significant step up from Shuksan for a lot of reasons. Requires good physical condition and endurance. Sedro-Woolley, WA 98284, Fairfield Inn & Suites by Marriott Burlington Moving more slowly can be dangerous. Shuksan, Mt. If you are on snow or bare rock, you must resort to the final option: blue bag it! We busted out the stoves and had a hot lunch at the lower bivy section while we waited for the occupying party to come down. One of the other group members (Rob) was available for this weekend, making it a party of 3. As we neared what I thought was the beginning of the ridge, another party arrived, and we let them pass us given my expectation to be pitching everything out. This climb includes glacier travel, and more than 1,500 vertical feet of scrambling and moderate rock climbing, some of which must be done while carrying a heavy overnight pack. Northwest Alpine Guides makes every effort to uphold the scheduled itinerary, although our guides are given discretion to adapt the itinerary for reasons beyond our control or due to the needs of the group. They are also illegal in all crosscountry zones. If there is a trail, use iteven if it means taking the 37 switchbacks instead of heading straight to your climb. Many injuries occur on the approach, when climbers often let their guard down, but the most serious injuries can occur during a climb. The peak is draped in hanging glaciers and beautiful rock buttresses. Shuksan, 9,127', via the Fisher Chimneys and the SE Ridge combines moderate rock climbing (up to 5.2), short steep snow and ice sections and spectacular glaciers on one of the most picturesque mountains in the world. Shuksan via the Fisher Chimneys and SE Rib on the summit spire. These trips are low ratio, small group expeditions led by some of the most experienced guides in the business. Photo courtesy of Joe. Me leading up the final (I think) pitch of the ridge just behind the party ahead of us. $300.00 deposit includes a $200.00 non-refundable registration fee, due with application. The word Shuksan is derived from a word in the language of the nearby Lummi Tribe that means high peak.. At 8:00 a.m. on the morning of the climb, we meet at the Guide Hut in Sedro-Woolley, WA for equipment check and orientation before heading to the trailhead. The boot pack from the parties coming down was still faintly visible so we made decent time in the dark across the Upper Curtis glacier. While we packed up the tents another party arrived, happy to snag our spots for their evening bivy. in daylight where I could see them, knowing that the next day we would be doing this on higher consequence terrain in the dark. For a quote, or to purchase travel insurance, please click this link Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance. A view from Lake Ann approach trail 2. 1. The road Is closed a little bit before the official lake Ann trailhead but you can park in the lower lots and walk up ( less than half a mile). Sedro-Woolley, Shadows cast, I presume, by the Mox-Spickard-Redoubt mountain cluster blocking sunrise against a high-altitude haze as we moved up the Sulphide glacier. The team will return to camp, pack up, followed by a full decent to the trailhead; 8.7 Miles, +3,100 Elevation Gain, -6,900 Elevation Loss, 12+ Hours Travel Time, 35-45 lb Pack Weight, Reserved Permit for Backcountry Sulphide Zone, Overnight camping accommodations on the first night of your trip, All breakfasts and dinners on the mountain, Overnight accommodations on the last night of your trip, No previous mountaineering experience requiredModerate to strenuous trekking and climbing at elevations above 8,000Travel over moderate glacial terrainRock Scrambling in boots or cramponsAbility to carrying a heavy pack (35-to-40 lbs)Overnight camping in tents. Tax ID: 27-3009280. I ran into the bathroom. Photo by K.Beckwith. At the top of Hells Highway, we put the crampons on evaluated the slope. A memorable climb: we had an open bivy on the little ridgetop in great weather, the glaciers and snow were in good shape for casual travel, we added two people to our party at the summit, we added two more on the descent at Winnie's . Enjoy a Northwest Alpine Guides adventure and summit a beautiful peak in the heart of North Cascades National Park. Plan to depart the day after the climb ends. From the top of the Slide, moderate climbing across three glaciers (White Salmon, Upper Curtis and Sulphide) leads to the foot of the summit pyramid, which we ascend via a 3rd class scramble up the central gully, or 5th class rock climbing on the pyramids Southeast Ridge. Rob's trial by fire scrambling with an overnight pack on his first day climbing a mountain. After a short time, we began the descent. Turn left onto F & S Grade Road, The NWAG Guide Hut is the first building on your left, Take I-5 South towards Burlington to Cook Road in Skagit County. Date changes are subject to availability and apply only to the current climbing season. The Mountaineers teaches skills and leads outdoor activities for all ages and levels in the Pacific Northwest. This low ratio program (2:1 max) is tailored to the goals, objectives, and experience level of participants, including ascents of both Mt. Hiking Time: 6 hours, Accommodations: Tented Camp Hot Drinks:Coffee, Caffeinated Tea, Herbal Tea, Cocoa, Cider. This will help reduce smells and animal visits to your camp. At 8:00 a.m. on the morning of the climb, we meet at the Guide Hut in Sedro-Woolley, WA for equipment check and orientation before heading to the trailhead. Shuksan is one of the most photographed mountains in the world. Mount Shuksan is a glaciated massif in the North Cascades National Park. We started Saturday afternoon and headed to lake Ann to make camp. To safely enjoy this climb, you must be able to meet these benchmark times while maintaining reserves of strength. 1. Mt. We are currently full for our 2023 dates and are accepting waitlist names at this time. The Fisher Chimneys portion of the climb ascend the imposing West face of the mountain, skirting the . You or your entire party may have to turn around without reaching the summit. North Cascades Alpine Climbing. Climb easy snow and rock, then climb 150 ft up a slope of steep snow or ice (Winnie's Slide, incorrectly labeled on the map), and cross through the ridge onto the Upper Curtis Glacier. ), Trailhead parking fees (Northwest Forest Pass), Waiver for pre-existing conditions (must be purchased within 14 days of trip deposit), Optional Cancel for Any Reason coverage (must be purchased within 14 days of trip deposit), Small personal first-aid kit with medications and blister kit. Running, swimming, cycling and other sports may help you prepare for your climb, but they are usually not sufficient. During open hours at the Guide Hut, you may pick up pre-reserved rentals, try on rental boots, and purchase last-minute items. More extensive food, shopping and lodging options may be found nearby in the cities of Mount Vernon and Burlington. ), are not NWAG responsibility and will not result in refund or reschedule. Approximately 2.5 miles from the trailhead is a signed . info@northwestalpineguides.com, 305 F And S Grade Road 210 Ball Street Fisher Chimneys with the more technical SE Ridge finish was a very bold trip for 2 brand new climbers, it took longer than expected. The Northwest Rib is nearly unknown, and rarely climbed. All scheduled programs can also be booked with custom dates and itineraries. The mountain's name Shuksan comes from the Native American (Lummi tribe) word qsn, which means "high peak". It was a huge relief to transition back to trekking poles and take off the helmets. Traverse for about 70 ft, then turn left up a side gully 100 ft to where the route tops out on the ridge. Almost at the Summit Pyramid. Where can one go to explore and test ones limits and skills when others have left such copious markers of human presence? Bladders may pop and hydration hoses freeze in the cold. There are no entry fees or parking fees within North Cascades National Park Service Complex; however, many routes or trails begin on National Forest land, and a parking pass is required (i.e. WA to pick-up permits. Plan to arrive the day before the climb begins. The policy is intended to protect participants who have otherwise committed time and resources to the departure. Shuksan. Rated class 4, you will be in near-vertical scrambling circumstances. I was pleasantly surprised at the quality of the rock in the chimney. If you wish to stay close to the meeting location the night before your climb, we recommend the following options: Three Rivers Inn Hotel Ascend/traverse the glacier, working left around crevasses. Pushing past Lake Ann, the group will climb another 2,000 ft to their camp above the Lower Curtis Glacier; 4.8 Miles, +2,500 Elevation Gain, 4 Hrs Travel Time, 35-45 lb Pack WeightDay 2 - In the alpine air, training clinics will begin. . Close Menu. The Guide Hut offers a selection of mountaineering equipment and clothing for purchase and rent. It was somewhat difficult to find good spots, most of the great ones were already taken but we each had packed small bivy tents so we were each able to find somewhere tuck ourselves into for the night. updates, images, or resources. Baker-Snoqualmie & Okanogan-Wenatchee, and Shoshone National Forests, the North Cascades and Denali National Parks, as well as Monticello, Moab, and Banks Lake . Rockfall is a concern in the chimneys. We cannot overstate how critical it is for you to bring foods that you enjoy eating. A National Parks pass may suffice. All our guides carry current certification in wilderness first aid. Draped in glaciers and capped with a beautiful, 3-sided summit pyramid, it more than lives up to its name. Our alpine guides will meet you for team introductions, gear check, and group gear distribution. Please note that Seattle traffic is worsening and driving times from Seattle and Seattle-Tacoma International Airport may be significantly longer. We do not accept participants under 15 years old due to insurance and liability reasons. I knew we had much more time than that, so I wasnt going to consider truly turning around until noon. Weather can be severe in the North Cascades. Joe and Rob putting on the crampons at the high bivy site to make the final snow descent down Winnie's Slide to the chimneys. Hike south on Lake Ann Trail over Austin Pass (4,700 ft). I was certainly hoping that the supposed running water at the bivy sites would be present and plentiful. The Northwest Forest Pass or the federal interagency recreation pass (America the Beautiful Pass) are honored at parking sites and are available at all ranger stations. Take exit 232 from I-5 N, Turn right onto Cook Road, Head East to Sedro-Woolley This is a popular trail for backpacking, camping, and hiking, but you can still enjoy some solitude during quieter times of day. The crux of the approach day is climbing 4th class rock with an overnight pack to access the high camp at Winnie's Slide. I made sure to follow the main upper route on the way down, which involved more 3rd class down climbing than I expected. Depends on, Appreciation climb for volunteers of the 2023 Seattle Intensive Basic Alpine Climbing Course, Basic Alpine Climb - Mount Shuksan/Fisher Chimneys, Basic Glacier Climb - Mount Shuksan/Fisher Chimneys. Guides are not responsible for providing transportation to team members. One day push in about 13 hours.Check http://www.mountainrefugees.com for . If there is no trail or designated camp, always look for rock, snow, or bare ground to travel or pitch camp. June 26-27. Joe and rob looking a little tiredconsidering that Rob had never climbed even a single pitch of anything before today, Joe had never been on a glacier before, and I had was leading my first ever glacier-rock combination alpine route this was a huge success! Shuksan (9,131') is a stunning massif of ridges, pinnacles, and glaciers located in Washington's North Cascades. Additionally, only one person (Joe) was available for that weekend. Northwest Alpine Guides does not insure you against these risks. Team members are free to organize rideshares with other team members. We got to the Lake Ann trailhead a bit after sunset, welcomed by swarms of biting flies. Please prepare your meals prior to your climb. An average tip is 10 20% percent of the cost of the program, usually $100 $200. From our alpine bivy, we turn to alpine ice, glacier travel, steep snow climbing, more glacier travel, and eventually alpine rock climbing . The Permits: A trail marker negates the boundary for North . It switchbacks, crosses two gullys, and becomes obscure just before the entrance of the first chimney. . The books listed below are examples of titles available on this subject (listing does not imply endorsement by the National Park Service). The Fisher Chimneys is a long, classic alpine route that leads climbers through varied terrain to the airy summit of Mount Shuksan. permits. They are dedicated to a climbing lifestyle, and collectively have climbed throughout the earths major mountain ranges. Pick up a clear trail and descend 150 ft, turn right, traverse, descend another several hundred feet, finally coming out at the edge of a talus slope. We strongly recommend that climbers book a hotel night following the final day of their itinerary and schedule departure flights on the following day. We set up our tents near the toe of the White Salmon Glacier at 6,700 feet. You will do it all: hike through amazing scenery, climb a complicated series of chimneys, camp in an amazing setting, cross several glaciers and climb the spectacular summit pyramid at the top of Mount Shuksan. We will not stop for a big lunch break. The mountains feature steep rugged glacially sculpted rocky mountain peaks with the most expansive glacial system in the contiguous United States. Johannesburg Mountain in the background during an ascent of the Torment-Forbidden-Traverse Photo: Mark Allen. It only takes one instance of a bear obtaining food from a climber to cause a problemdont be the one who makes this mistake. Travel insurance offers the best protection in the event of a sudden, unexpected illness, an injury prior to or while traveling, or a possible family emergency. September 2017. Read our Goals and Fitnesspage for recommendations on how to best physically prepare for this adventure. Do talk about waste disposal options and plans with your group. Our initial plan was to camp at the bottom of Winnie's slide but the ranger station put an end to that saying all permits for the Price glacier area were gone for the weekend. Use a backpacking stove for cooking. The climb continues up over parts of three different glaciers - the White Salmon, Upper Curtis and Sulphide Glaciers and concludes with a 5.0 rock climb up the . I've done both. Trails Hiked. Northwest Alpine Guides will instruct you how to climb safely and successfully. Snow . Permits are mandatory any time you plan to spend the night, whether in a tent or at a bivy site. Cold drinking water will be available in high camp. Protect your gear and keep animals wild by urinating on bare rock, far away from camping areas, and by keeping salty gear and other food items out of reach of wildlife (use a bear canister, or hang food from tree limbs or large boulders). Take I-5 North towards Burlington to Cook Road in Skagit County. Climbers must have the proper equipment, skills, and experience for a given route. We will email you detailed PreClimb information including a gear list and full departure details upon receiving your registration. Mountaineers Books is a registered trademark of The Mountaineers, a 501(c)(3) nonprofit organization. The Guide Hut exclusively serves Northwest Alpine Guides customers. I had some field trips in July planned to practice snow and glacier skills, some conditioners up mailbox peak, and had booked campsites near Mazama for the first weekend, intended to be 'rock practical skills'. This left enough space to pack extra climbing gear just in case I had to build bail anchors, climb technical ice, or raise/lower us out of a situation. Eating properly is the key to maintaining strength in the mountains. Climbs of Fisher Chimneys start from the North side of the mountain and hike past a beautiful small lake before tackling the complex yet very moderate rock climbing terrain of the Fisher . No extra acclimatization is necessary for this program. Sedro Woolley, WA 98284, Office Hours Here, Rob is at the last good stance to unrope at the end of the rap. Scramble before Fisher Chimneys, 07/15/2019. Please note that a minimum of two participants is required to guarantee each departure at the advertised price. Me, crampons on getting ready to go check out the snow conditions on Hell's Highway. Single-use passes are $5.00 per day. Times: 2-3 hr trailhead to camp, 7-8 . Dates & Prices. Lodging in Burlington and Sedro-Woolley, Washington. I put in a pair of pickets, had everyone remove their glacier rope setup, and set up a fixed 60m single strand rappel. Unfortunately, we were a good 15 minutes into it before I realized this, so we continued to route find our way up to the chimneys entrance on what was probably a less efficient path. This is not a blanket requirement for the entire park or for all portions of these zones, and was purposely limited, after two years of internal review and public comment, to areas of high use by both humans and wildlife, where wildlife has become habituated to getting human food, and other methods of food storage were ineffective, improper, or impossible. Please include the route, snow level, any hazards encountered (or not), peak(s) attempted, and whether your party successfully summitted. Winnies is steep but also had a great boot pack, so I used it as a good teaching moment to let Joe take lead and put in a running belay with pickets. It wasn't super fast but I wanted to have them learn to manage the multi pitch transitions and system as their own 'second rope team'. The trail descends onto a ridge then turns right and enters a gully. Mountain Tactical Institute. Out of all of the ruggedly beautiful, non-volcanic mountains in the Pacific Northwest, Mt. Hike 4.2 miles to Lake Anne to camp for the evening. If you think bears never travel above treeline, think again: bears have been seen trekking the Quien Sabe Glacier in Boston Basin, glissading on the Neve glacier, and swimming in a sub-alpine lake near Mt. This route is the one most often seen on photographs of Lake Ann and Shuksan. Payments Policy. We reached the Sulphide glacier just as morning twilight was beginning. Although it took more time, I set up rappels on the tough sections of the chimneys. It was Robs first time ever rappelling on a real mountain. Mount Shuksan has become the iconic face of the rugged North Cascades of Washingon, with its picturesque north face a ubiquitous presence on calendars and souveniers. Not a bad first-time multi-pitch and alpine climb for Joe and my first alpine climb lead on my own! Shuksan. That said, it is linked to one of the most striking features on the mountain. Do ask rangers about your bathroom options in various climbing areasrangers are happy to answer questions. Continue driving another 45 minutes to the Lake Anne Trailhead. We ask that you consult your travel insurance carrier directly with questions. However, excellent weather and generous trip planning made this a very successful outing with abundant learning opportunities. Three or four 15-minute lunch & snack breaks during the hike to high camp. The Mountaineers teaches skills and leads outdoor activities for all ages and levels in the Pacific Northwest. Physical fitness is the foundationof everymountainadventure. In 1975 Joe Horiskey led RMI's first guided ascent of Denali and since then RMI has led over 300 Expeditions of Denali. Day 2 Summit Day Sedro-Woolley, WA 98284. Vertical Descent Hiking: 2,000 feet Spontaneity Arete from the previous weekend. Guidebooks Numerous popular climbing guidebooks are available for learning about routes and peaks in the park. Northwest Alpine Guides will provide the group with hot cooking water for breakfast and dinner. No trip planning is complete until you consider the most important element of any climb: returning safely and without injury. There are no resources for this route/place. Lou Whittaker first climbed Denali in 1960, marking the 12th ascent of the mountain. Climbing and wilderness rangers are on hand to provide advice, answer questions, or assist in trip planning. I left the second weekend open, not knowing what routes would be in the best condition that far ahead. The thin floor still always makes me nervous on rocky terrain. Here are some important reminders to help protect the places and routes where you love to climb. I didnt want to overburden myself so I made some judicious cuts to my clothing kit, accepting the fact that if the weather window collapsed it would be immediate cause to turn back. Before June 16, priority for Foothills Climbing community. At about 2 mi, cross small creek and hike up small stream and over ridge southeast (4,800 ft) to Lake Ann. Joe and Rob rapped down the steep section. Urine and sweat are not considered health hazards, but they are both salty and thus an attractant to wildlife, especially rodents, deer, and mountain goats. Joe making his way up the ridge. Schedule: Day 1: Approach, climb the Fisher Chimneys, circumnavigate to the base of the North Face. The anchors at the top of the Chimneys are best used only when there . 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